Common Name:Leopard Gecko
Scientific name: Eublepharis macularius
Native to: Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India
Size: Regularly 8 to 9 inches with giant morphs reaching up to 12 inches
Life span: Can live 20 or more years although 10-15 is more common
General appearance: Leopard geckos posses a yellow background color with adults having brown spots. Babies tend to be yellow with black bands. They have obvious ears and possess eyelids. They have no adhesive toe pads like other types of geckos, but instead have claws on their toes. Color may vary considerably since there are so many different genetic morphs present in herpetoculture.
Enclosure: A 20-gallon long aquarium is enough for 3 - 4 leopard geckos, however you should only keep 1 male per enclosure since they are territorial. Rocks and logs will provide climbing areas and hiding places. Each leopard gecko must have its own hiding place. A lid is not necessary for the leopard geckos, since they do not climb glass, but will help keep crickets from escaping.
Temperature: Daytime high should be 82°F on one end of tank with a warm basking spot of 90°F on the other. Night temperatures can drop to 70° - 72° F with a small part of the substrate heated to 90°F using an under tank heat pad.
Heat/Light: No special UV lighting is needed as leopard geckos are nocturnal. A spotlight with the appropriate wattage bulb can be used for maintaining daytime heat and light. An undertank heat pad is another viable source of heating, but make sure to use a thermostat to control the temperature.
Substrate: Newspaper, papertowel, unglazed tile, or sand may all be used. Sand produces the most natural setup, but should only be used with adults to prevent possible impaction in younger geckos. Do not use wood chips or shavings of any kind since injestion can result in impaction.
Environment: Dry, arid type climate. However, a moist hide box should be provided and kept moist to aid shedding and simulate the leopard gecko's natural burrowing behavior. We use disposible gladware containers with a hole cut in the lid and filled with coco fiber. A shallow water dish should be available at all times with fresh, clean drinking water. Also keep a small dish of pure calcium with no D3 avaliable at all times.
Diet: Crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and roaches are all good staple diets for leopard geckos. Adult leopard geckos will also eat an occasional pinkie mouse. Food items should be dusted weekly with a vitamin supplement that includes vitamin D3. Since a dish of calcium is made avaliable you won't need to dust with calcium. Avoid wild caught insects since they may have been exposed to pesticides.
Maintenance: Keep substrate free of waste products. Water dish must be washed and refilled daily to prevent bacterial growth. Change substrate regularly.
Other references or recommended reading:
The Leopard Gecko Manual By Philippe de Vosjoli, Roger Klingenberg, Ron Tremper, Brian Viets - BowTie Press (2004)
Leopard Gecko in Captivity By Robbie Hamper - E. C. O. Herpetological Publishing & Distribution (2004)
The Herpetoculture of Leopard Geckos By Philippe De Vosjoli, Ron Tremper, Roger J Klingenberg - Advanced Visions (2005)
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